“We learned of a possible leak between our home and the city line coming into our home. We called Sutherland Plumbing and Ti came to our home after 5:30 pm! We discussed the problem, he looked at the situation, told me what he thought needed to be done and sent me a written estimate the next day! We made a contract to have a new pipe installed and he arrived exactly at the time he said he would.
Ti brought his team of Cameron & Nathan and got to work. He called me a little over an hour later and told me he had some good news. I immediately went to my home and he discovered that I didn’t need a new pipe at all! He fixed the issue which was under my home and a few other things and saved my family a ton of money.
The minute I met Ti, I knew he was a man of integrity, who cares about his clients and is always doing his very BEST! In my humble opinion Ti at Sutherland Plumbing is the BEST in the business and I highly recommend him and his tremendously professional team for any of your plumbing problems. If you need plumbing help, don’t hesitate to call Ti! You’ll be thankful you did, just like me and my family!”
5 Stars (Yelp)
Jeff G – Forest Grove, OR
New Main Water Line install by Master Plumber, Ti Sutherland!
Winter is upon us! The weather will inevitably bring freezing temperatures that have the potential to cause havoc on plumbing systems!
Time to “winterize.” “Winterizing” means: to adapt or prepare something for use in cold weather.
Every year around this time, plumbers are called-out to urgent situations resulting from frozen plumbing. If it gets really bad this winter you may find it more likely to see Santa and his reindeer flying around than a plumber, because every one of us is busy fixing broken plumbing pipes!
Let me assure you, the vast majority of freeze-damaged plumbing is completely avoidable.
Here are a few very basic things that you can do to put you & your home at an advantage:
1) Close or block-off your foundation vents:
2) Turn off the water to exterior hose faucets: Turn clockwise to shut-off your water valve. Sometimes this can be tricky for two reasons:
First: do you know where the valve is?
Second: the valve may not work so you may be in a vulnerable position.
3) At the very least: Remember to insulate your outdoor hose-faucets (hosebibbs) & irrigation systems.
Remove any garden hoses from the faucets and cover the faucet with something that will insulate & protect it from freezing temperatures.
Almost every home center and hardware store sells products made specifically for this.
4) “Heat Tape” is another inexpensive way you can “winterize” your own home with just a quick trip to your local hardware store or home center!
“Heat Tape” comes in different shapes, sizes & lengths but basically is a cord that when energized creates resistance heat.
Think of a rope wrapped around pipes that you plug-in like your electric heating blanket.
5) Open cabinet doors where plumbing is located on exterior walls: This will allow a better chance for the heat from the room to convect to the pipes inside the wall. However, we do not recommend this step if there are children and/or pets in your home.
Ti Sutherland – Master Plumber, Sutherland Plumbing, LLC (CCB#200460)
Sutherland Plumbing’s Co-Founder & Co-Owner, Katrina Sutherland testing our Vacuum Excavator made by “Ditch Witch” a great American company!
Here’s another 5-Star Yelp Review from one of our valued customers here in Beaverton!
October 5th 2019
Fast. Thorough. Professional. Prompt. Communicative. Quality. These all describe the service I received from these guys for my water main leak.
I called the office and Courtney got my info and said I’d get a call soon. Soon indeed, Ti called and I told him about the problem. Soon again, Cameron showed up. He listened to me completely as I described the situation and we went over things. Then he did his inspection and measurements and gave me two options to fix the leak. He went over everything that I could expect with the work, thoroughly. Before he left, he made a temporary hookup bypassing the leak, so I’d have water.
A few days later the crew arrived promptly. By noon or so they were waiting for the City inspector to come and approve the completed work. They had torn out the old plumbing, removed deep thick tree roots (that probably had a lot to do with causing the problem) and installed all the new plumbing from the street meter up to the house.
Oh, they also cleaned out a clog, repaired my drain pipe and fixed a toilet-flush issue to boot. Before they left, they made sure everything was pristine.
Bottom line: No one likes needing a big repair, but you may as well get it done right and that’s how these guys work.
5 Stars (Yelp)
Richard C – Beaverton, OR
To all of our valued customers:
Don’t get us wrong, we love all the work you’re giving us, but if you want to do something proactive to avoid unexpected & costly plumbing breakdowns – check & know what the water pressure in your home is.
Per the plumbing code (not to mention good practice) anything that’s at 80 PSI (pounds per square inch) or higher is excessive and MUST be regulated.
Excessive water pressure is analogous to high blood pressure. The devastating effects & havoc are caused over time. Irreversible damage can (and will) take its toll! High water pressure is one of the most common core problems discovered by plumbers day after day, service call after service call.
I’ll make this as easy as possible: Check the link below. It will take you to Amazon to purchase the very same tool we purchase as professionals to check your water pressure. It’s literally as easy as hooking up a garden hose!
Click here to check-out the “Rain Bird P2A – Pressure Gauge.”
As the weather heats up, more and more people are using their garden hoses & outdoor hose faucets. This means many more service calls to fix “dripping” hose faucets. While some of these service calls require some specialized skills and materials to repair – many times all it takes is a basic hand tool like an adjustable wrench…
…and a few seconds to remedy.
Most outdoor hose faucets have what’s called a “packing nut.” It’s common after several dozen times of turning it on and off the packing loosens causing a slight drip. Sometimes if left unattended it worsens over time and drips or leaks profusely. You may be able to save yourself a service call by attempting to tighten the packing nut, just remember “right to tight & left to loose.”
Adjust your wrench or pliers to fit around the packing nut of the faucet – usually no more than a quarter to a half turn does the trick.
There, you’re done!
Take the money you would have given the plumber (to drive out a big truck full of equipment) to do the same job and go out to a nice dinner!
How to Water Your Lawn:
Knowing how to water a lawn the right way is critical to the overall health of your lawn. The frequency and amount of water you apply to grass may vary – depending on soil, time of year, weather conditions, type of grass, and so on. Follow these tips when watering, and your lawn will shine:
1) Water to the proper depth: Moisture should penetrate to about 6 to 8 inches deep. Watering less deeply results in a shallow-rooted lawn that dries out quickly.
On the other hand, applying water that penetrates much deeper than 6 to 8 inches is wasteful because most grass roots don’t grow longer than that.
Check how deeply the water penetrates your lawn by probing the ground with a stiff metal rod or long screwdriver. The rod moves easily through wet soil and then stops, or becomes difficult to push, when it reaches dry soil.
2) Allow the lawn to partially dry out between watering: This step creates the good moisture-air relationship that is essential for healthy roots. The lawn shows you when it’s getting dry and needs water: When you walk on the grass, you can look back and see your footprints. The grass also changes color from bright green to a dull, almost smoky, grayish-blue when it is dry.
3) Avoid runoff: If you apply water faster than the lawn can absorb it, which happens with many types of sprinklers, the water runs off into street gutters and into oblivion. That’s wasteful, so don’t do that. Instead, water in short intervals of about 10 to 15 minutes, turn off the water (or move the sprinkler) to let the water soak in, and then turn the sprinkler back on for another 10 to 15 minutes. Repeat this procedure until you get the water down to about 6 to 8 inches deep.
You can avoid runoff in other ways. One way is to use sprinklers that apply water very slowly. The other method is to get rid of “thatch,” a layer of organic crud that builds up near the surface of a lawn and dramatically slows water penetration.
4) Water in the morning: Early morning is the best time to water. The weather is usually cool and calm, humidity is usually high, and water evaporates less. The wind also doesn’t blow the water into the neighbor’s yard! Morning watering gives the lawn a chance to dry off before evening, which can protect your lawn from disease and pests.
5) In midsummer, most lawns need between 1 and 2 inches of water per week: You can apply the whole amount of water once a week, but most people get better results by splitting it into two applications. In sandy soils where the water penetrates quickly, splitting the water into three applications may work better. Watering more frequently than three times a week is verboten.
6) Watch your lawn and make appropriate adjustments: If the lawn doesn’t seem to dry out between waterings, stretch the intervals in between. If the water doesn’t get deep enough, apply a little more at each watering, but water less often. If everything seems fine, try cutting back on the amount you apply anyway and see what happens. Maybe you can conserve some of that valuable resource.
7) Watering newly planted lawns is a whole different ball of wax: You need to water new lawns more often until the grass plants become established.